Gowri Shankar and Snake Shyam

Date: 28 and 29th of Jan 2012. Place Mysore

Conducted by P. Gowri Shankar and Snake Shyam

Every professional is bound to tackle a set of FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions) and so do I. Questions such as ‘Aren’t you scared?’, ‘What should I do when I see a snake?’, ‘I want to handle snakes, will you teach me?’ and ‘Will you allow me to touch a king cobra?’ ! ; followed by a tale of “One day I saw a snake…….” Then there are ‘snake rescuers’ who exude great confidence, some out of right knowledge some due to ignorance, who of course can do better with a push in the right direction. Hence this one of a kind workshop took shape to answer all these questions and more.  The aim was to address basic ethics and right techniques of rescue, relocation and captive management of snakes.

The workshop attracted people from diverse backgrounds from full time snake rescuers, PhD students, software professionals, wildlife biologists, to photographers. Their reasons to enrol was just as diverse, some wanted to act instead of being mute spectators to snake killings, some who had handled non-venomous snakes  now wanted to start rescuing venomous ones and few others who had already rescued venomous snakes  wanted to get trained professionally.

Drill before the grill

We kick started the day with an introductory session on snakes. As all participants had filled out a questionnaire prior to the workshop it helped in understanding their levels. We then delved deep into topics on rescue, relocation and captive management.

‘Rescuing snakes’ is a very subjective term, and the way I interpret is in the interest and welfare of the snake more than anything else. Hence a point that I stressed very heavily was to ‘NOT CATCH SNAKES BY THE NECK’ unless absolutely necessary (in cases when other methods are actually stressing the snake or when there is absolutely no time to try other methods). I have seen snakes caught by neck refusing to eat for several days and one king cobra did not accept food for 95 days. Though catching by neck may give an adrenaline rush and display heroism it does more harm to the snake and risks the rescuer’s life!

Demonstrating how to use a snake hook

Hence we discussed other effective methods like ‘Butterfly net’ capture techniques, baggers, pipe and bag technique introduced by snake rescuer Anees Mohammed(from Bangalore).

The Bagger Technique

Not many realize that the first phone call to rescue a snake is the best opportunity for the rescuer to gather as much information, brief about steps they need to take and calm the caller. If practiced well it can save lot of time, effort and energy.

Attending live rescue calls was a pioneering idea that I conceptualized and it turned out to be a showstopper of the workshop.  Each rescue call is unique, understanding the perspective of the caller, public, rescuers and figuring out how to retrieve a snake from unique situations is what I hoped every participant would learn ;And doing this with the master himself is like icing on the cake.  Snake Shyam is an expert who has rescued and documented rescue data of over 22,000 snakes. One can imbibe a great deal from just watching him. Omer Kaiser from XTrails Expeditions http://www.xtrailsexpeditions.in/mtb.html  was kind enough to sponsor a vehicle and everyone got a chance to witness Snake Shyam handle the rescue operation.

At the rescue site, discussing methods to retrieve a snake

We rescued a sand boa and a cobra on the two calls that we attended. He made sure all understood the basic ethic of ‘NOT CATCHING AND/OR TRANSLOCATING A SNAKE IF IT COULD BE SAFELY LEFT WHERE IT IS FOUND’. He also showed how one could use this opportunity to educate public about snakes and encourage them to understand and tolerate snakes around. As Rom says “A big part of the problem could be resolved by teaching people to identify snakes and to tolerate, or even encourage the non-venomous varieties to stick around.”

Identifying snakes is very crucial for any snake handler. Participants were taught safe methods of identification through scale counts using restraining tubes and encouraged to use field books.

Participants engrossed in learning the scale count method of identifying snakes

 It is quite ironic that many rescuers still have fancy explanations when asked about the sex of the snake. I was once asked by the director of a zoo, ‘Why are these snakes not breeding even after keeping them together for two years?’, and when I sexed them I found both to be males! He got his answer. Though there is sexual dimorphism in few snakes it requires one to be trained to identify. Hence sexing the snake is very important but at the same time should be done very carefully.

Soon after the rescue many rescuers bring rescued snakes home and keep them for reasons which are more absurd than reasonable; like, calling friends and relatives to take a look, pose for pictures and some really weird excuses stating the snake’s (a common cobra’s or a rat snake’s)tail is too thin …so may be a new species! All snakes are protected under the Wildlife Act, two pythons and egg-eating snake are listed under Schedule I; the king cobra, common cobra, Russell’s viper, rat snake, dog-faced water snake, checkered keelback, and olive keelback under Schedule II and the rest fall under Schedule IV. In other words no snake can be caught, kept or translocated without the permission from the Forest Department.

Session on captive management

If a snake rescuer has been identified and granted permission to rescue and keep snakes, he should be trained in captive management of snakes. This demands good understanding of the species and an uncompromising attitude towards proper care.

Participants cleaning up terrariums

One needs to keep in mind that rescued snakes should be brought to captivity only if its condition is serious enough to warrant medical intervention and if the condition is too serious then it is best left to the veterinarian to attend to the snake. Participants were shown how to shift snakes, feeding protocols to follow, cleaning and maintaining terrariums.

This workshop has been a breakthrough and people across the country have come forward to collaborate to conduct such camps in their respective states. Gerry Martin http://www.gerrymartin.in/workshops.html) from Bangalore and Nirmal Kulkarni (http://goawildwatch.blogspot.com) from Goa already conduct herpetology camps and workshops which are good avenues for interested individuals. More such professional workshops will prove as a boon for rescuers and snakes.

Sitting: Snake Shyam; Standing: Shankar, Laurel ,Chaitanya,Gowri Shankar, Madhusudhan Shukla, Shivu,Arun Singh, Prashanth,Vinay, Omar,Anwar ; On the jeep: Mahesh, Snake Shyam's son, Jagadeesh, Ashwini, Pooja,Suhas, Vijay; Not in picture: Barkha, Suresh DN, Shashank, Nagendra, Anand, Sonu,Yagnesh

I believe, promoting right knowledge to right people at the right time will foster right attitudes towards snake rescue and relocation!

Acknowledgement: Thanks to Shivu and Prashanth for their support during the workshop.

Next workshop:

@ Mysore  on the   31st  March & 1st April 2012

If you are interested please write to me at :

gowrishankar.pogiri@gmail.com

References:

• Das, A., Nair, M.V., Gosh, S. and Mahanta, N. 2005. Protocol followed for rehabilitation of Burmese rock pythons (Python murlurus bivitatus) in Assam state zoo. In: Back to the Wild: Studies in wildlife rehabilitation. Ed: Vivek, M., Ashraf, NVK, Panda, PP. and Mainkar, K. Wildlife Trust of India, New Delhi.
• IUCN, 2002. IUCN Guidelines for the Placement of Confiscated Animals. Prepared by the IUCN/SSC Re-introduction Specialist Group. IUCN, Gland, Switzerland and Cambridge,
• Miller, E.A. (Ed.), 2000. Minimum standards for wildlife rehabilitation. International Wildlife Rehabilitation Council and National Wildlife Rehabilitators Association, St. Cloud, MN. 77 pages.
• Shine, R. and Koenig, J. 2001. Snakes in the garden: An analysis of ‘reptiles’ rescued by community-based wildlife carers. Biological Conservation. 102: 271-283
• White, J. 1993. Basic Wildlife Rehabilitation (Editor: Louse Shimmel). International Wildlife Rehabilitation. C.A. pp 1-10.
• http://data.iucn.org/dbtw-wpd/edocs/2002-004.pdf
• Warrel, David A. Guidelines for the management of snake-bites
• Notes on rescue capture and translocation of snakes for WTI workshop Kaziranga, Assam, February, 2008, Rom Whitaker.
• Follow the IUCN protocol on the placement of confiscated animals for an appropriate decision on the resolution of snakes confiscated from charmers and traders (IUCN, 2002).

Authors: Sharmila & Gowri Shankar

I sincerely apologize to all who follow this blog for a late update. I hope the excitement will come alive as you read about king cobra hatchings of 2011.

A King cobra nest is nothing short of a wonder. King cobras build their nests using dead leaves which they pack so tight to stand tough against the heavy downpours that lash for months. Our studies in the Western Ghats reveal that hatching happens between July end and mid-august. The average incubation period varies between 100 to 113 days and once the hatchings emerge they remain close to the nest surviving on the remnants of the yolk. There is no parental care and after 3-4 days they shed (molt) and disperse to fend for themselves. Hence these baby king cobras possess enough venom to start hunting from day one. Though they can hood up and deliver fatal bites many fall prey to a variety of predators and it is approximated that only one or two reach adult hood.

As part of our research we typically measure, weigh, identify the sex and then release the hatchings back to wild.(Prashanth and me with forest officials and press in 2009)

In 2011 we received reports of six king cobra nests in Agumbe and four nests in Mizoram. In Agumbe, the inherent reverence among people and our efforts in the past to build trust and confidence has made people more receptive, accommodative and tolerant towards king cobra nests. And now that there is a team at ARRS trained to monitor nests and collect data, this year I decided to concentrate on nests at Mizoram.

As soon as we heard about nests in Mizoram I was off to check them out and gather data. I have always admired Rom’s style of ‘throwing the hat of the fence’ and then decide how to collect it.

Mizoram calling...

Irrespective of lack of funds, resources, resource people, logistics, we started off with nest monitoring at Mizoram. And yes things slowly fell in place! Big thanks to funds donated by Late. Luke Yeomans of the King Cobra Sanctuary, Nottingham and ARRS. I reached Mizoram in the first week of July and with help from HT, Hrima, and Siama (folks at Mizoram involved and interested in herps especially king cobras) we set forth on the first leg of this project. Siama, an MSc graduate from Mizoram University joined us as a research associate to help in data collection.

Challenging terrains

We first visited Sailum.  These hilly regions with steep terrains are quite a challenge. We had to trek on slippery slopes cutting through thorny bamboo under continuous drizzle for over two hours to reach the nest that was hardly 1/2km from the village.

Nest at Mizoram...my first sighting (a dream come true)

However the arduous climb was worth it as we saw the female king cobra on the nest. We noted down the temperature, humidity, nest height and width, took down GPS readings and left immediately.

The following day we visited Phunchawng, a village 15km from Aizawl.  We then visited Saitual another village and with David’s (school teacher) help located the third nest. However, we could not visit the fourth nest as it was not accessible due to heavy rains.

A village enroute to a king cobra nest

These nests were spotted by people who ventured deep inside the forest to collect Bamboo shoots, a staple diet. All these nests were built on slopes (~45 degrees), within bamboo thickets and using Bamboo leaves (Dendrocalamus longispathus). Apparently during the nesting season HT and Hrima receive at least 10 rescue calls to remove females on nests in and around Aizawl.

It was very disturbing to learn that some people use this as an opportunity to hunt these snakes (more like an organized sport) too!

Female king cobras in Mizoram are known to guard their nests for longer periods almost till the hatchings emerge and even after interference/disturbance by humans they return and continue guarding them.  But! in Agumbe of the 16 nests that we have monitored, females usually leave the nest after 2-3 weeks (of laying eggs) and never return ; esp. if there has been any human disturbance. The maximum number of days that I have seen the female on the nest in Agumbe is 32 days.

At Mizoram the females on these nests were present till the 26^th of July, 30^th of July, and the 24^th of August respectively. The hatching took place 2-4 days after the females left. Out of a total of 60 eggs, 57 hatchings were recorded from these three nests.

A hatchling moves out of the nest

Back at Agumbe, Prashant, Base Supervisor who has assisted me for years in monitoring king cobra nests helped our new research associate, Ajay Giri in monitoring six nests this year. Out of  a total of 144 eggs, 97 hatched.

It is indeed a long tough road for these young kings. How many make it to adult hood, what are their food preferences, what strategies they adopt to survive, how often they shed (molt), what resting places they prefer etc., still remains to be answered.  Another avenue yet to be explored and studied!

A long road ahead!

Authors : Sharmila & Gowri Shankar

Edited by : Shweta Harish

The Eastern Ghats beckons

King cobras hold a special charm and have lured me as far as I can remember but to say Andhra Pradesh has probably charmed me much before is not an exaggeration. As a child I spent my summer holidays here and hold many pleasurable memories that I cherish.  One such memory is of my uncles narrating descriptive stories of how tribals secretly lived in the mountains and descended once in a while to shop. This created a sense of mystery which I was so eager to solve. I was finally here with the same mystical and adventuristic feeling to exclusively look for king cobras and maybe encounter the tribes too.

Between 2009 and 2011 three king cobras were reportedly killed in Srikakulam District. My plan was to visit these places to check the habitat, meet witnesses, understand people’s perception and fathom the gravity of the situation.

Interacting with a local along with Mr.Ramanamurthy(sporting a cap) and KLN Murthy(holding a bag)

We zeroed in on Seethampeta and Gangammapeta, where the kings were killed earlier. These villages are part of the Eastern Ghats that stretch up to Orissa. The terrain is a mixture of mountains and plains.

A news clipping of the king cobra killed in April 2011

First, we visited Gangammapeta where a king was killed just months ago in April 2011. Another king cobra was reportedly killed in 2009 at the same place.

I was eager to get first hand information and waited to speak to people who were involved in the act. This meant I needed to win their confidence. My knowledge of the local language and mentioning about my family’s association (My mom’s village is just 8km from here) with the place did the trick.

People readily opened up and narrated the story quite enthusiastically. I was told that the snake was spotted moving along a fence and then moved into a building used to store firewood and had coiled up.

The dilapidated building where the king had sought refuge

A huge snake such as this certainly attracts attention and within minutes the whole village had gathered to watch it. The king cobra obviously panicked and moved out of the building and that was when this 12 footer was killed with a stick and later burnt.

A sad story for me but a heroic one for many there! However I was happy that they agreed not to kill the next time they see one and instead call for rescue.

Our next stop was at Seethampeta where a king was killed in 2009. I did not get a chance to meet the people here but visited the Government Science College in Srikakulam where the Green Mercy team had preserved the specimen in formalin. I had hoped to collect a sample from this for DNA analysis. And this meant I needed some formalin. Our look out for this chemical turned out to be one hilarious and memorable event that day.

We had already checked more than eight pharmaceuticals in town and were turned down saying they did not have any such ‘ointment’ or ‘tonic’! We finally came to ‘Venu’s Surgical’ a well stocked pharmaceutical in town. I waited in the car while KLN Murthy (a MSc graduate with good knowledge about the natural history of the place who joined me on this trip along with Mr.Ramanamurthy) approached them. We were lucky that they stocked it but being a restricted drug they refused to sell it over the counter. They brushed Murthy off and remained glued to the TV watching ‘Secrets of the King Cobra’ translated in Telugu! Our man, Murthy immediately asked if they would sell him the chemical if he introduced the person in that documentary (‘Me’) to them. They obviously thought this guy was crazy and agreed. He then asked me to come over. Totally unaware I went ahead and then saw what the term ‘jaw drop’ meant! Not only were they shocked, thrilled and excited to talk to me they happily sold us the formalin that night. A memorable incident which will stay with us all our lives. The king at the college looked quite big and I felt his head was much bigger than that of an average sized king found in Agumbe.

King cobra killed at Seethampeta in 2009

I was not lucky enough to see a live one during this visit. Until now we believed that king cobras preferred areas with heavy rainfall and high humidity but this visit changed this perception altogether. It would be very interesting to study how kings survive under these dry climatic conditions and in shrub forests.

Areas where king cobras have been sighted

Before leaving, I met Mr. Thayoub, Deputy Conservator Forests, a very courteous and enthusiastic gentleman. Looking at the enthusiasm of the forest department, people and with support from NGOs like Green Mercy, we are very keen to initiate projects in the coming year.

Authors: Sharmila & Gowri Shankar

Edited by: Shweta Harish

Follow me....!

In India, King Cobras are found in the Western Ghats, Orissa, a small stretch of Andhra Pradesh, the North Eastern States and the Andamans.  Since our focus so far has been on king cobras of the Western Ghats (primarily in Agumbe), we have very little knowledge of their counterparts in rest of the country. This year we decided it was time to set foot beyond Agumbe and tread on the trail of these kings.

Our first step was a visit to Thrissur, Kerala after a frantic call from Dr.Nameer, Asst.Professor, Center for Wildlife Studies. Here, three king cobras were caught back to back and a fourth one was spotted in the same house due to which the family had abandoned their home and was staying in their neighbour’s house.

Interacting with the owners at Paramala village...where the kings came calling!

Such intrusion was certainly not welcome and though they had initially supported the rescue of the former three, they were now on the verge of killing the fourth.

Interacting with students at the College of Forestry

Dr.Nameer translates the presentation in Malayalam as we address villagers at Paramala

Education is the key to reach out and open minds. With Dr.Nameer’s help I was able to address students at the Forestry College and villagers.  I see good potential for long term studies on king cobras and feel that urgent measures to conserve these serpents are needed.

As I write this, I am on the second leg of my journey on the king’s trail. I am at Mizoram and am humbled with the hospitality that I have been receiving. The North Eastern states always seemed very mysterious and this visit is a dream come true! Thanks to HT, Asst. Professor Mizoram University and Hrima, a businessman who enticed us with news about kings (How could anyone sit quiet after hearing of people spotting 10 king cobra nests in one year!!! ? ) from this part of the country for over a year that pushed Rom and me beyond Agumbe. An invitation from the Mizo FD was most welcome and set the tone for this trip.

Aizawl...A birds eye view

Mr. Eanga, DCF extended a warm welcome. Though the place reminded me of Agumbe in many ways I was at once awed and amused to see buildings standing on cliffs. Most structures are on stilts including parking platforms with a Maruthi car in every home. Considering narrow roads and the terrain, the monopoly seemed justified. Most goods were imported from other states hence even a simple Hawaii (flip flops) slippers cost more than Rs.300 (while we could get them for as cheap as Rs.30 in Bangalore!) Fashion consciousness among all ages is so matured and far reaching compared to other cities I have been to. The level of literacy is good (literacy rate 91.85 %)  and most people speak English. It was interesting to see the script for Mizo was English. With hardly any agricultural activities, trade and business are their primary occupation. Christianity is the predominant religion which is probably also one of the reasons why snakes are not tolerated by people. Sadly most streams are polluted severely and without doubt adversely affect various life forms downstream.

King Cobras are considered common snakes here (just like cobras and rat snakes in Karnataka).  After seeing the kings being revered and treated as ‘KINGS’ down south, to consider them just ‘ordinary’ and like any other serpent was a little discomforting to me. They are often found within city limits and mostly killed on sight. Though a small bunch of people like HT, Hrima and their teams are trying hard to push people to call for rescue, very few heed. Another striking contrast is, in Agumbe people love to watch rescue operations and would probably even be happy to witness the drama if I were to get bitten, but here it seemed people preferred to watch the snake being killed than it being rescued. This calls for a big attitude change, which I am confident will happen if only we could channel the energies and passion of the many young people to create awareness and sensitivity.

Addressing students as part of World Environment Day celebration

Undoubtedly serious efforts are needed if we are to learn and conserve these magnificent serpents. With help from the forest departments, NGOS, passionate young reptile enthusiasts we are keen on starting and helping in initiating projects along similar lines of Agumbe. The small team here is already on the right path of rescuing king cobras, educating people, protecting nests and releasing hatchings back to wild. Doing the same on wider scale and using scientific methods will go a long way in filling in for the dearth of information from this part of the country.

Though radio telemetry studies (similar to that in Agumbe) is a possibility it would be highly challenging and tricky to follow kings on these steep terrains.   Studies of king cobra breeding biology, monitoring nests, hatchings and collecting rescue data would provide a door way in understanding king cobras of the north eastern states.

After this visit I feel Mizoram is indeed a great place to study king cobras. With its ‘commonness’, peoples attitude and hilly terrain it is a different ball game altogether but nevertheless an opportunity one should not miss.

Filling in the visitor book....checkout its size!

The next leg of my journey takes me to Andhra Pradesh where I will visit different places in the Eastern Ghats where king cobras have been sighted and sadly killed. This being a totally different terrain I am sure it is going to throw up many surprises and get me on the edge to explore the lives of these king cobras too. Can’t wait!!!

Authors: Sharmila & Gowri Shankar

Edited by : Shweta Harish

It is that time of the year again, when one of the most interesting events in nature unfurls in the Western Ghats. I am talking about female king cobras building their nests. As I write this, these snakes have either zeroed in on the location or are eagerly looking out for one right now!

King cobra breeding season starts from early February when males seek females who leave their scent (pheromones) behind. Most often more than one male vies for a female resulting in male combat and the triumphant male gets to mate.

Male combat-a sort of wrestling match where each one tries to subdue the other by pushing the head to the ground

Courtship lasts anywhere between 5 minutes to 2 hours and continues for days during which they mate multiple times. In 2007 I observed pairing for up to 30 days.

Courtship followed by mating:The male nudges the female by gently moving over her and the female displays submissive behavior by spreading her hood after which they mate

 After this the male leaves and the gravid female moves in search for a place to build her nest. Males do not play any role in building or guarding the nest. Typically females are ready to lay eggs by the last week of April. For the five years that I have been studying king cobras at Agumbe I have seen sixteen nests and most of them were found between 22nd and 26th of April (which means this week!). I was lucky enough to observe four females in action.

Females typically select a slope close to a tree with adequate shade. Considering Agumbe receives more than 8000mm of rainfall annually, this selection makes sense as, a slope guarantees the flow down of rain water preventing any stagnation, the buttress ensures a strong base and the shade ensures regulation of sunlight and decelerates rain drops before falling on the nest.

Nest under dappled sunlight

It is not until one appreciates how a limbless creature can build a well engineered nest that one realizes how our hands destroy natures wonders so unmindfully. The female gathers leaf litter (from a radius of 3-5m) in tight coils and slowly but steadily deposits them together. She repeatedly moves into it to tighten and pack the leaves firmly. Once the nest is around 30cm tall and 3feet wide she moves in to lay her eggs.

Female carrying leaf litter after looping them within with her coils

In nests observed around Agumbe, the clutch size varies from 23 to 43 eggs. The female then comes out and continues to build till the nest is about 4 feet tall. She generally stays on the nest and guards it for 12- 15 days. In one case in 2008 the female was present on the nest till the 27th of May, which is the longest record we have observed around Agumbe. During this entire nesting period the females rarely feed. Incubation period varies between 90 to 113 days; incubation temperature varies between 24-28 C and humidity between 55-90%.

The first time I witnessed a king cobra on a nest was at Coorg (informed by Snake Shyam from Mysore). As always the inherent curiosity of humans had gotten the better of them and the nest lay disturbed. It was heart wrenching to see the female painstakingly working to cover the nest with the scattered leaf litter to protect the eggs from the downpour.

Eggs lay exposed after the nest was disturbed by locals

Installing a board at a nest site requesting people not to disturb

Though people revere king cobras in the Malnad region of the Western Ghats they certainly do not favor a king cobra nest with 40 eggs anywhere close to their homes. Hence they prefer shooing the female away, or disturb the nests and some go to the extremes of burning the nests down.

Unprecedented developmental activities leading to dwindling habitats is already impacting the survival of this species and if entire nests are burned down it is hard to imagine what we stand to lose. At the Agumbe Rainforest Research Station we embarked on the study of wild king cobras and their habitats. Over these years we have monitored several nests and involved local students who are the custodians of these forests.

Local student monitoring a king cobra nest

 This community based research approach has been a success and we have released over 400 hatchlings back to wild, with a success rate of 98%. Now one needs to keep in mind that typically in reptiles out of every clutch only one or two reach adult hood.

Apart from Agumbe we are now networking with other states where king cobras are found to study and conserve them. In 2009 I visited Uttarakhand and monitored a nest along with Manish Rai who is doing remarkable work with king cobras there.

Female king cobra guarding her nest at Uttarakhand

These king cobras build their nests in June and females stay on the nest for longer periods as compared to their counterparts in the Western Ghats.

This year I visited Thrissur, Kerala and met Dr.Nameer, Professor at the College of Forestry with whom we hope to tie up to monitor nests this year. In the coming months I will be visiting Andhra Pradesh, Mizoram and a few North Eastern states to unravel the secrets hidden in their folds.

True to Benjamin Franklin’s words I believe “An investment in knowledge pays the best interest.”

PS: Watch out for the post on hatching …..When it is time!

Authors: Sharmila & Gowri Shankar

Edited by: Shweta Harish & Manoj

A question that I am frequently asked is, ‘what would I have been doing in life if not working with snakes?’ This is a very tough question for a person whose very essence of life is a deep urge to study  these critters. Although for several years I kept brushing it aside, the answer surfaced only recently. I realized that if not for snakes I would have certainly been working with horses. These tall charismatic creatures evoke a sense of awe every time I see them.

There is something about the outside of a horse that is good for the inside of a man. ~Winston Churchill

I am not sure when exactly my love for these animals was awakened but as far as my memory goes it must have been when I was around ten years old. We lived in a colony with clustered houses with a huge play area at the center. One morning, we found a pony that had lost its way and was loitering in our play ground. Its presence created mayhem and got every teenager and adventurous adult excited. Reins out of binding wire and a saddle out of bed spreads were made and the smartest guy with an adventurous reputation ‘attempted’ to mount it. The pony had its own plans and would not relent. While we kids watched in amusement, one by one everyone tried, unmindful of the stress the pony probably underwent.

The H for Horse figure that I had seen in charts was alive in front of my eyes and this scene triggered my liking for animals. By the time I was thirteen I had already started handling snakes and was involved in childish trading of beetles, chicks, insects, feathers and had almost negotiated with a cobbler to buy me a sloth bear for Rs.100!

Years later when I had started rescuing snakes for BSPCA I got a rescue call from the Government Veterinary Hospital.  After the rescue at the stable, the owner of the horses got chatting and on learning of my interest in horses offered to teach me to ride in exchange for my service. It was an exciting beginning and during the next three months I learnt to lunge and trot. But my calling in the field of herpetology was louder and I moved to Madras Crocodile Bank to work with crocodiles and king cobras. Horseback riding took a back seat while I moved steadily into building my herp career.

For years this interest of mine lay dormant. In October 2007 Renuka Prasad a champion rider of yester years visited Agumbe along with his friend. A casual chat about how great it would be to ride a horse in these rainforests brought along an offer to learn riding. Prasad offered to teach and invited me to visit him at the Bangalore Turf Club.

Prasad and his graceful gait

I diligently visited along with Sharmila who shared my liking for horses and wanted to ride too. It was our first visit to the Turf club and we marveled at its expanse. The sprawling land, well kept race tracks, numerous stables with magnificent equines could woo anybody. As we walked, huge giants strode past us leaving a cloud of dust on our faces and set our hearts racing; and the very next sight of them moving calmly to be washed and groomed got those very hearts melting. What were these creatures that got us so moving…we wondered!

Prasad has been riding for over twenty five years and has also won the Equestrian Championship at the club. Over the years, he has been training friends and has kept his connection with horses alive by being a regular at the club. He also fondly talks about his horse ride at Wellington where he was part of a mock fox hunting team. He very kindly offered both of us a ride that day. While it was not my first time, it certainly was Sharmila’s who struggled to get on one. She could not stop blushing to be atop so high while those very expressions concealed her fear of falling off. That day we came back feeling exhilarated. The plan was, Sharmila who was working in Bangalore then could learn and teach me when she joined me at Agumbe. However for many reasons this did not happen and my stint with horseback riding took a back seat once again.

Five years went by and I remained in Agumbe coming to Bangalore occasionally. My life was all about king cobras now and I was probably getting a little comfortable.  The quote ” “If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got” seemed to apply aptly now. I picked the cue and decided it was time to move on. Sharmila and I moved back to Bangalore to begin the next phase of our lives. With this move I was now ready than ever to infuse life to that passion that I had always paused for other pursuits. I got back to riding in May 2010.

When I approached Prasad this time he propelled me with his infectious enthusiasm and enrolled me with Bangalore Amateur Riders Institute (BARI) at the Bangalore Turf Club. Entwined with BARI’s history and present is Mr.HariRam Singh.

The zealous Hariram Singh watches from atop, while Prasad and a young rider look on

A champion in show jumping and tent pegging of yore he still holds the national  record for clearing the highest jump with his horse. After retiring from the Army he has been training students since 1985 many of whom have brought home medals and glories from across the country and made BARI proud. The disciplinarian that he is, he plays by his own rules and ensures accord at the institute. His famous dialogue is “Don’t sit like a ‘aata ka bag ‘ (sack of flour)”. He is indeed the acid test that none can escape!

Horses at BARI are basically those that have retired from mainstream running or show jumping. For reasons unknown to me, horses are named in phrases, such as Popcorn, Daring Don, Eye Opener (pronounced as ‘Aiyappan’ by staff !), Ready to Challenge and Cardinal Rule etc. One would surely be amused to watch riders address each other by the name of the horses they rode than their actual names (E.g. Hey Popcorn how are you doing? Good morning Eye Opener! Etc). I started off with basic management and for three months I cleaned stables, which involved removing horse dung, wet hay, replacing the bedding, cleaning their hooves, grooming, saddling and then taking them for riding.

My knowledge about horses grew in bounds. Horses, having evolved over 55 million years ago, are among the first few animals that were domesticated by humans and are now widely bred; so much so that most horse breeds are domesticated except for the Przewalski’s Horse, that are considered as true wild horses.

A Przewalski's Horse Source: Wiki commons

Horses live by a fight-or-flight instinct with an average life expectancy of 25- 30 years.  They are trained for various purposes and at BTC are used for show jumping, dressage, racing, equestrian shows etc.

After a green signal from HariRam I moved on to learn lunging, which is the first step in learning how to ride. This requires the rider to sit atop the horse and move with it to imbibe the rhythm while the trainer moves the horse in a circle. It is truly a test of one’s stamina and strength. After two rounds of lunging it became apparent that I had to revamp my warm-up exercises, which I did conscientiously and for the next two months my understanding and appreciation grew further.

Learning to Trot

The milestones of riding are to start with lunging, moving on to trotting then cantering and finally galloping on a horse. Each of these stages involves unique techniques to be adopted but above all – unless the rider understands his horse he is as good as a novice. While Prasad says that the rider should always be in control of the horse, I beg to differ especially because with my experience I have found the horse is more aware of me being a newbie and he is in control of me. Time, training, understanding and experience may probably change my outlook someday. Six months went by and I enjoyed every moment.

Anybody who starts off riding always has an inherent itch or rather a crouching fear somewhere deep down about falling off the horse. Once one falls he either bounces back or just quits! I was no quitter, so the urge to fall and bounce back was haunting me every day I rode. Sometimes I laughed about it and at other times made macho comments of wanting to fall soon. Finally it did happen and was an experience by itself. Falling off a six footer, looking up at the towering figure and the sound of its hooves next to your ear is no easy meal to digest. Thanks to Hariram’s bellow to jump back on, that overwhelming feeling was brushed out before it could take root as fear in my mind.

But on the 14th of Jan 2010 something else awaited me and it proved to be a day to remember! I mounted Cardinal Rule; the horse that I always felt had a moody temperament. He had minutes ago bucked a rider and was running loose. I was to mount him after that. I mounted him and rode for a short distance when he bucked me down; unrelentingly I mounted back and thought I had him under control. But he had other plans and he bucked again landing me hard on my butt and injuring by back. I was rushed to hospital in an ambulance and was told that I had a compression at the L3-L4 region of my spine. I was to be under bed rest for at least three weeks and was not to travel for the next one month.

I had just about moved on from learning how to lunge and trot to canter when this accident seemed to bring the next big break to my horse riding endeavor. And as I write this I have just completed one month under house and bed arrest; though I feel it is a costly fall, my urge to get back is bigger than my fear.

Awaiting my next come back..

Much against the wishes of my well-wishers I just might attempt to ride Cardinal Rule at least once to complete the chapter before I move on, on my break ridden journey of horseback riding!

Authors: Sharmila & Gowri Shankar

Edited by: Shweta Harish

Sundarbans calling....

A wedding invite from my friend Nandita Mondal at Calcutta pressed that trigger and ceased the inertia.  I was already booking tickets along with my childhood friend Jagadeesh who usually accompanies me on such wild explorations.  Another friend Bikramaditya Guha Roy, an avid wild-lifer from ‘Nature Mates’, (http://www.naturemates.org/home.html) an NGO doing impressive work in Calcutta immediately stepped in to help out and set the ball rolling for an adventure that got me counting days.  Sharmila, my wife having just entered her ninth month of pregnancy I wanted to be back much ahead of her due date.

On the 16^th of November bags packed, last minute shopping done, we were excited to board our train at 8pm. The last task for the day was a visit to the gynecologist (Dr.Swetha, also Sharmila’s cousin) for a routine checkup. With just an hour left to board the train, the routine checkup turned into a little tsunami of events, where Sharmila started showing signs of going into labor; totally unprepared we were left in a whirl of emotions and confusions. The trip was canceled…….and excitement turned its course!

On the 17^th at 11:57 am our baby boy kicked his way into our world. As I held his fragile body and stared into his beady eyes, I realized that there could be nothing in this world that could surpass the joy of holding one’s new born. I was now a father and was on top of the world!

Tattwavit, our baby boy

The next day as our excitement started to mellow down with practicalities of caring for a new born, I was in for another surprise—-again from Sharmila. Knowing well about my excitement for the Sundarbans trip and efforts taken by our friend Guha in organizing my visit she made an unexpected un-lady like suggestion. She asked me to go ahead with the trip and said she could manage things; my love and respect grew bounds and I realized there was indeed a woman behind every man’s success!

With the mystery land beckoning and luring us all over again our trip was back on.  We received a warm ‘Calcutta Welcome’ and as it is said that people make its country, the hospitality extended was truly appreciable. The city had an old world charm, reminded especially by trams that ran crisscross on main roads amidst chaotic traffic and we almost got killed twice. It was interesting to find ponds in the backyard of almost every home and I was told this was to rear fish which was part of their staple diet. That evening I addressed a group of enthusiastic students and amateur wild lifers about king cobras.

All ears and eyes during the talk

The potpourri of questions that followed gave a glimpse into the potential that remains untapped in these youngsters.

Having lived in the seclusion of jungles for years, cities are always a put off and I instinctively strive to either avoid or getaway soon. The next morning we were finally off to the Sundarbans. This world’s largest delta earns its name from the Sundari trees that are found in abundance here.  Formed by the confluence of the Brahmaputra, Ganges and Meghana rivers, these mangrove forests are listed as a world heritage site by UNESCO.

A boat stranded, awaiting high tides to resume sailing

Life here is governed by the rise and fall in tides and it is host to maximum number of tigers (as per an unofficial record, 270 were counted in 2004; however scientists working here claim only 100-120 tigers. Serious efforts are needed to get exact numbers.)

These forests are home to a variety of wildlife including king cobras and salt water crocodiles. My main interest was however in king cobras and having heard that estuarine king cobras found here were smaller in size, agile and more aggressive compared to their likes in the Western Ghats, my quest was to learn about their habitat, prey base, and adaptations for survival in these mangrove forests.

Fifty two islands form the archipelago in the delta. Our plan was to cover Kalash Island and the Lothian Island, both considered reptile havens. Twelve of us boarded the Lakshmikanthapur local from Sealdah station to reach Joynagar. We sat atop a jeep with groceries and chicken needed for the next three days and finally reached Kaikhali where our boat and our guide Mr.Mrinal were waiting.

On our way to Kaikhali

The boat reminded me of the good old Ambassador car. There were two levels; the lower level with cots and a kitchen and the upper level had a roofed sitting area. It was admirable to see a western and an Indian toilet in the boat, but to know that it opens out into the water below us was a little discomforting. Solar lights were used for lighting.

Our Abode...our boat!

The boat men were to prepare our lunches and dinners and though my Hindi could make any Hindi speaking person laugh these guys did not care a smile!

The Suite!

The weather was pleasant, air crisp and our hopes high! The next ten hours went in discussions with students, interacting with fishermen, buying fish off passing boats and preparing delicious fish fry (which was the only snack), and of course enjoying the view.

Enjoying the view and hashing out at the sitting area.

Several birds like Common sand piper(Actitis hypoleucos), Lesser adjutant (Leptoptilos javanicus), Greater thick knee(Esacus recurvirostris), Brown-winged kingfisher (Pelargopsis amauroptera), Black-capped kingfisher (Halcyon pileata), Collared kingfisher (Todiramphus chloris), Whiskered tern (Chlidonias hybridus), Brown-headed gull(Chroicocephalus brunnicephalus) dotted the shores, wild boars (Sus scrofa) rummaged under cover, and though a good place for sighting salt water crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus: known to grow up to 23 ft and weigh close to a ton, it is the largest reptile alive on earth) we did not spot any.

Fishermen often spot tigers swimming across these waters but we were not lucky enough that day. Twenty-five species of snakes including, Common cobra (Naja naja), Monocled cobra (Naja kaouthia), Banded krait (Bungarus fasciatus), Common krait (Bungarus caeruleus), Wall’s Sind krait (Bungarus sindanus walli) Hook nosed sea snake (Enhydrina schistosa), Annulated sea snake (Hydrophis cyanocinctus) and four more species of sea snakes are found in these waters. En route we visited a crocodile breeding center on Bhagbhatpur Islands. Every year the forest department here breeds hundreds of salt water crocodiles and releases them in wild. Crocodiles varying in size from yearlings/hatchlings to 13 ft adults were present at the center.

We finally reached Kalash Island at 6pm in the evening. A nine feet gate stood tall and as soon as the boat was anchored we were asked to move fast into the gated forest guest house.  Tigers here have a reputation of being very aggressive. Just days ago a tiger attempted to attack a boat man at this very gate; luckily for the boat man the tiger  unmindful of the fence in between smashed into it and moved away to the forest. With us caged in, while beasts roamed free, roles here seemed to be reversed.

Decent accommodation with three tents, two cottages, and clean toilets amidst a man made park is open to visitors. I wondered how challenging it would have been to carry materials on small boats to build these structures at such a place. After a sumptuous dinner of rice, fish curry and fish fry few of us went for a night walk. We spotted few skitter frogs and a dog faced water snake foraging in burrows looking for crabs.

Frog

Interesting crab

That night all hit the bed in the lap of tiger country.

We set sail very early the next morning and after nine hours reached Lothian Islands. The boat was anchored, we stepped on an embankment and walked past the slushy bank with mud-skippers skirting around. Out of the ‘Big Four’ venomous snakes of India, the Common Cobra(Naja naja), Russell’s viper(Daboia russelii) and Common krait(Bungarus caeruleus) are known to occur here and on our arrival a freshly shed skin of a Common cobra(Naja naja) was found in the toilet at the guest house.

Since walking in these forests was allowed, the group spread out with their heads peering into crevices and holes looking for snakes. Though several shed skins of snakes were retrieved, we were not lucky enough to spot any live animal.  Time running against us we started back to Kalash Island in the afternoon and on the way back visited Bali.

A typical house in Bali

Houses here had a pond in front of their homes  and it was really interesting to see adult goats just two feet tall.

Believe it or not...thats an adult goat in Bali

Stunningly beautiful snake with clear checkered marks

At the same place we visited a resort, where we spotted a Checkered Keelback snake. We also visited the Wildlife Protection Society of India (WPSI) field station and learned about their commendable work with people and tigers. People here had spotted a tiger swimming in the morning and we missed it by a good 3 hrs.

http://www.wpsi-india.org/projects/support_sundarban_reserve.php

During our journey back there were more than two instances where we had to stall due to low tides and wait for high tides to get us moving.  With no GPS and no land marks I wondered how these boat men were able to navigate around. We were brought back to the safety of the forest department tents at Kalash Islands even on the darkest of nights.

The gung ho gang!

On this quest to learn about king cobras I never missed any opportunity to find signs, interact with forest guards and people to gather more information. King cobras found here were supposedly very aggressive and not easy to spot. People fear these snakes and recently a king was killed by forest officials at the forest guest house.  Insights into this unique habitat and their sundry prey base were fascinating. In line with my study on breeding biology of king cobras in the Western Ghats I am now very curious to know about their nesting behavior in these mangrove forests. With practically no studies on these reptiles here, it will be a while before we start getting answers.

Homeward bound

My trip to the Sundarbans though shortened by time, was I would say a good one. Though we did not get to spot many animals, a peek into other aspects of life in this part of the country was a revelation. Being a unique habitat for king cobras I am sure I will be back soon to unravel their secretive lives here. All set to go back to my family, it is a promise to come back with them on my next trip.

Authors: Sharmila & Gowri Shankar

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Authors: Sharmila & Gowri Shankar

My venture into the world of reptiles was thanks, to a deep passion to understand these creatures; rescuing them was the first step in learning and appreciating their lives. After landing in Agumbe to study king cobras, my direct association with these reptiles began at the door steps of people in whose homes or farms, king cobras had wandered into. Slowly, I learnt that rescuing an eleven foot highly venomous snake from cozy, dark Malnad houses amid crowds was indeed a daunting task.

From being bombarded with  questions from crowds, planning my rescue strategy, being extremely alert, ensuring safety of the snake, people around and my own, my mind was reeling in a different realm. But, of course, the impression that followed after each of my rescues was of an easy catch. As it is said, “Always keep a smile on your face…It makes people wonder what you’re up too!!!”.

I have had my own learning during these experiences. I have shared some methods and skills that have evolved over time in accomplishing the same task:

King Cobra rescues from  wells

In  2005

I was called for a King Cobra rescue at Thallurangadi, approx 13 km from Agumbe. Being a new face at Agumbe, my name and rescue acts had gained lot of popularity and people were very eager to see who this crazy guy was. A King Cobra (approx 10 ft) had fallen into a 50 ft well with water up to 20 ft.

King cobra resting on stone lined ring of the well

He was desperately trying to get out. Typically, every Malnad house has a well that serves as the only source of water during summers. These are usually lined with stones that seem to droop under the burden of moss after heavy rains. Short, dwarf like trees (like Bonsai) and ferns grow on the inner lining of these wells. Spiders, ants, glow worms, skinks and sometimes even snakes like checkered keel-backs and rat snakes reside in this habitat. But these human structures also interfere in the way of wildlife. Apart from King Cobras, there have been instances of leopards falling into these wells while chasing dogs!

After assessing the scene, I offered a simple suggestion- to place a bamboo pole or hang a thick rope and leave the snake alone for it to climb out. Many scorned this suggestion because it seemed to dampen their enthusiasm of watching me rescue the King! They wanted to see it being rescued and released far away from their place. My insistence to not disturb the snake only took absurd turns in their minds and they started discussing gruesome ideas of how they could kill the snake. From electrocuting, to throwing a huge boulder, to strangling, each idea was atrocious compared to the other. It was a tricky situation. Since it was already getting dark (and it is very risky to rescue the king under dull light) I managed to buy time and convinced them that I would come back for the snake early the next morning.

As promised I reached the place before 7 A.M. The snake lay on a groove of the stone lined well, almost touching the water.

Seemingly tired King!

People were already at the well, their eyes gleaming with anticipation to watch if the snake was going to be removed or if I was going to be bitten. In any case the air was filled with palpable excitement.

I had worked my brains the previous night and had come up with a couple of ideas. I first attempted to lower a basket with leaf litter to coax him in. But the King took this object to be an intruder and tried to strike at it continuously. Not wanting to stress him any more, I moved on to my next plan. I requested for a bamboo pole to be placed close to the snake hoping he might take this route, but with a hundred heads peering down, this seemed far fetched too. My last resort was to go in myself.

I lowered a bamboo ladder, which is basically a bamboo pole with sudden small jutting at cross angles acting as steps. Unique to this part of the state, these ladders are used while harvesting areca. Though it requires practice to use one, my situation did not offer much time for that. With my feet on the ladder and grasping on to rough edges of the stone wall I went down almost 25 feet, hardly 5 feet from the serpent! The King by this time was in the water swimming frantically.

Balancing on the ladder and face to face with the king

He suddenly shot up from the surface of the water hooding up and tried to strike. I stood baffled and bewildered. It took a while to register that a snake as heavy as 5kgs could hold its ground on the surface of water and lunge at that speed.

Assessing the King’s attitude, I understood that though the snake was tired, he did have a lot of stamina that could put to shame any of my attempts to approach him. I soon devised an idea to prepare two nooses and use these to retrieve him. Time was running ahead of us and the King was getting stressed. Whatever I had in mind, I now had to execute in as short time as possible. Balancing on the ladder, with a hook in one hand and two nooses in the other, I managed to coax the snake into both the loops. I gently fastened one loop ~70 cm from his head and the other at ~100 cm from his tail. The noose was just steadfast enough to hold the snake (not too tight not too loose), lest he break his vertebrae in his struggle to free himself. I let the snake remain in water and I clambered up the ladder to the mouth of the well. The next step was the most crucial. We had to gently draw him up, release the noose and bag him in seconds (to ensure least stress). After warning to keep a safe distance and ensuring nobody in their excitement messed with things I requested a few volunteers to control the crowd.

Just as planned, with help from Shivraj (a resident) I drew up the snake as quickly as I could. Once out of the well, the snake as expected was quite agitated and seemed to exhaust all his remaining stamina in striking at me to get away. I managed to loosen the nooses and let him free for a while and then bagged him. People were exhilarated, amazed and wore faces of accomplishment.

End of an ordeal...for both!

As for me it was one of the most challenging rescues I had ever carried out and my reward was the safe release of the snake close to the spot of rescue.

Two days later I heard of people spotting another King Cobra close to the same area. Given it was the breeding season, I suspected that these could have been mating pairs. I secretly hoped that their courtship continued far away from human eyes!

In  2010

Five years later – I was called for a rescue and the situation was the same. A King Cobra had fallen into a well, the call came in the evening, people wanted it to be removed in front of them and this King was part of a mating pair! The difference now was that I had rescued over 127 king cobras, was more accepted by people and had been trained in tree climbing.

People had witnessed a male King Cobra chasing a female resulting in her fall into the well. When I reached, the male was still very close by, hiding under fallen logs, probably keeping a watch. That evening I removed the male and promised to return for the female the next morning.

I went back early next morning. I found the female king cobra around 10 feet above water level, resting on a groove of the stone lined wall. I now had to descend a well that was 40 feet deep and just 6 feet wide. Using conventional methods in the most unconventional situations is what I felt innovation and creativity was about. True to this belief, I decided to use my tree climbing skills and equipment to go down the well and retrieve the snake. I thank Tim Kovar of New Tribe (Thanks Tim!) for teaching me the tenets of tree climbing – I got to use these skills in the most unexpected and unorthodox situation.

I used the single rope technique (SRT) and harnessed myself to a tree and then hung from the rope over the bar across the well and went straight down using an ID (an equipment used to descend) to meet the king eye to eye.

Meeting the King

With my feet precariously toed on stone edges I stood diametrically opposite to the slightly tired yet alert snake. Any minuscule error in judgment or movement would take me straight into her mouth.

Prashanth, my colleague lowered a rope with a loop at its end and I used my hook, which was also sent down by a rope to coax the snake into the noose. Though she raised her hood, she played along. To avoid any injuries and suffocation, I further coaxed her to move in so that the noose was at her mid body and fastened it.

Coaxing the king into the noose

A steadfast noose....not too tight, not too loose.

This being the breeding season I also had to keep in mind that she could be gravid. This was one of the reasons to avoid using two nooses as compared to the earlier case.

I then climbed up soon and was back on foot. We now had to pull her up as soon as possible. We did it in less than 20 seconds. Soon, the King was on the wall of the well, staring face to face.

King and I...face to face

Though according to people she seemed thankless, I knew it was only our perception. She was true to what she truly was….a king!  I then released the noose and went on with the standard procedure of bagging the snake.

Conclusion

With over 127 King Cobras rescued so far, the most adventurous and nerve-racking have been the five snakes that were rescued from wells. Each situation has been unique, challenging and has demanded different methods based on the situation.

Concentration, common sense, presence of mind and focus have been key elements in successfully rescuing them.

However, after every rescue it has been quite a task to explain to people that their water is not really poisoned, but nevertheless they prefer to pump the well almost dry, and then to perform rituals to sanctify.

Religion and Rituals, powerful tools for conservation.

I accepted this and have rarely objected – for religious beliefs are one of the strongest (sometimes the weakest too!) conservation tools that we have today that will ensure that the King Cobra survives in these parts of the Western Ghats.

Authors: Sharmila & Gowri Shankar | Edited by: Shweta Harish

You may download and distribute it for educational purpose. We would greatly appreciate if you can cite the source.

Note: Best viewed on full screen. (Click on the full screen option at the top of the presentation)

Authors: Sharmila & Gowri Shankar.